Day 28: El Acebo to Ponferrada

May 19, 2025May 21, 2025PJ Leave a comment

Evening thunderstorms made for a misty/foggy morning.

I was almost sad to leave Albergue La Casa Del Peregrino. The pilgrims’ meal was good and I slept very well.

It wasn’t too long before the sun cleared things up.

It also wasn’t too long before Riego de Ambros came into view. Sadly, no services were available.

The path down to Molinaseca was tricky at times.

Especially when I was looking at the view instead of at the track.

It got easier closer to town.

The town was so lovely, I wanted to stay, but I had booked a room in Ponferrada. I trudged onward, in the rain..

to be greeted by this?!?

Day 27: Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo

May 18, 2025May 19, 2025PJ Leave a comment

The Albergue de Nuestra Señora del Pilar in Rabanal del Camino had so much potential, I really wanted to like it. Unfortunately, the bunks were uncomfortable and the room was freezing. It wasn’t my best night’s sleep but the morning was bright and sunny.

It’s a hike up to Foncebadón

but the cafe at Albergue Monte Irago is a welcome pit stop especially for the apple pie,

which helped me make it up to the Cruz de Ferro.

It was such a pleasure to be back in the mountains.

Even the rocky, feet- destroying path, was beautiful in its own way.

There were so many pictures to choose from to represent the day.

I just kept stopping to capture the scenery.

Until little El Acebo came into view.

My feet were hurting so I decided to try my luck again at finding an available bed and (hopefully) a better night’s sleep.

Day 26: Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

May 17, 2025May 18, 2025PJ Leave a comment

The day started off well. No rain and found the way easily enough.

It was too pretty of a day to be stressed.

I hadn’t been able to book a room or a bed in advance but I firmly believed the Camino would provide.

I had some pleasant chats along the way.

And a fine dinner with good company at an albergue, that did indeed have a bed.

Day 25: San Martín del Camino to Astorga

May 16, 2025May 18, 2025PJ Leave a comment

What a difference a day makes. Unsure of what lied ahead, I took pictures of anything even remotely interesting.

I needn’t have worried but to hedge my bets, I did take the more scenic route.

There was no shortage of visual stimulation.

Manmade or otherwise.

Inquisitive or curious.

The view from the stone cross on an elevation, from which you can see the towns of San Justo de la Vega and, a little further, Astorga, is an eye-opener.

Even the murals grab your attention.

Then, the Palace of Gaudí Astorga.

And it’s view from the roof, of the cathedral and even snow in the distant mountain.

The stained glass is breathtaking but not quite as startling as my need of a haircut.

Day 24: León to San Martín del Camino

May 15, 2025May 17, 2025PJ Leave a comment

Upon entering León, I crossed the Río Torío. Upon exiting, I crossed the Bernesga River.

This was my least favorite day so far.

The path was sandwiched between two major roads with frequent traffic. It ran along the N-120 and had only overgrown fields separating it from the AP-71. (Upside, people in passing cars don’t yell or throw things at you.)

There was a constant threat of rain, but fortunately it held off until the last mile or so.

Thankfully, this 15.5 miles stretch isn’t very representative of the Camino. There is a slightly longer more scenic option available tomorrow. As long as it isn’t raining, I’m sure I’ll take it.

Day 23: Lying in León

May 14, 2025May 15, 2025PJ Leave a comment

Excited to have a rest day in León and elevate my poor feet. When it wasn’t raining, I didn’t completely neglect the sights.

Gaudí’s Casa Botines warranted a look.

I attempted to explore the gallery but for some unknown reason, admission was restricted solely to the first floor.

The Convento de San Marcos is now a luxury hotel (outside of my budget!).

Dinner was rowdy fun. Lunch was quietly delicious.

Day 22: Reliegos to León

May 13, 2025May 14, 2025PJ Leave a comment

Stopped for breakfast at this inviting spot in Mansilla de Las Mulas.

Checked out the local farmers’ market.

Crossed the Esla River.

Walked a lot.

Looked at things.

Admired the view.

Located my hostel, near the León Cathedral.

Attended dinner with fellow pilgrims. Devoured fried chocolate.

Day 21: Bercianos del Real Camino to Reliegos

May 12, 2025May 13, 2025PJ Leave a comment

In hopes of beating the rain, I got an early start.

It was paying off but it looked like it might start raining at any moment.

I started picking up the pace.

I tried to remember to take pictures and enjoy each moment.

A visit to Villamarco was tempting but at almost a kilometer off path, it wasn’t worth risking.

It rained steadily for hours after I arrived. Sadly, I stayed huddled indoors trying to stay warm and dry.

Day 20: Sahagún to Bercianos del Real Camino

May 11, 2025May 12, 2025PJ Leave a comment

The forecast said more rain and it sure looked like it would be accurate as I was leaving Sahagún.

I did get a late start as I decided to stop at the Santuario de la Virgen Peregrina to get a “Carta Peregrina” but it was only going to be a 10k day.

Due to the rain, shorter distance, and endless fields of grain, I took few pictures. The Ermita de la Virgen de Perales welcomes you to Bercianos del Real Camino.

For those that have never stayed in a hostel, here is an example of a preferred set up. Each “pod” at this albergue has a light, outlet, and privacy curtain. Each bunk is sturdy, doesn’t squeak, and you are provided a pillow case and fitted sheet. (I carry a sleeping bag liner.)