Day 18: Población de Campos to Calzadilla de la Cueza

Leaving Población de Campos behind.

Revenga de Campos wasn’t very far down the road.

At Villalcázar de Sirga, a quick visit to the Templar church of Santa María la Blanca.

The sixth stage of the 2025 La Vuelta Femenina whizzed by.

Followed shortly thereafter by rain.

It didn’t linger much longer than Carrión de los Condes.

It loomed and grumbled all the way to Calzadilla de la Cueza.

This may have been the best smelling stage of the Camino so far.

It was definitely the longest.

The threat of more rain made it seem endless.

I tried to focus on the bright spots.

A welcoming sight, the cemetery at Calzadilla de la Cueza.

Still dry! Now to locate the hostel.

Day 17: Castrojeriz to Población de Campos

Beautiful morning leaving Castrojeriz.

Unfortunately, upon leaving town, the day starts with the mountain pass of Mostelares. It doesn’t look like much in this photo but the next 1.25 miles of the trail went up 465 feet.

Of course, after enjoying the view from the top, the backside just went down.

About 7 miles later, Itero de la Vega offered this very welcoming mural.

More nesting storks, wildflowers,

fields,

towns,

other birds,

and hills to view along the way.

Before and after Frómista.

Finally, Población de Campos, population of about 180. Excuse my brevity, it was a long day filled with many miles.

Day 16: Hontanas to Castrojeriz

Due to limited availibility of beds and yesterday’s long haul, another short day seemed to be in order, which meant sleeping in.

This region is known for expansive cereal fields. I tried to discern if this was barley or wheat.

The Convent of San Antón makes for a scenic rest stop along the way.

More verdant fields of grains and wildflowers on the way to Castrojeriz.

Then Castrojeriz appears on the horizon.

It’s a pretty town, population of about 780.

It even has the remains of a castle.

The view from my balcony and dinner with friends.

Day 15: Burgos to Hontanas

Reluctantly leaving Burgos. Crossing over the Arlanzón River and catching a bird resting on the tip of El Cid’s sword.

I say reluctantly because it was about to be a 20 mile day. Every bed in between Burgos and Hontanas was either spoken for or going to go to the early risers.

Passing through Rabé de las Calzadas. A stork’s nest, a sign with the medieval pilgrim’s term, ultreia, meaning further, and

a traffic jam.

Afterwards, the rest of the day went mostly like this.

And this…

And so on…

Until this view of Hornillos del Camino.

Then this…

A bit of this…

And so on…

Until this welcoming view of Hontanas, population 70.

This unimposing building houses a most wonderful treat.

This picture doesn’t do it justice but the hydrotherapy spa with its jets and sauna was just what I needed when I hobbled into town.

Day 14: Burrowing in Burgos

Welcome to Burgos!

My decision to spend a “rest day” in Burgos had a few unexpected flaws. I arrived on a Sunday so many places were closed but it was also Spain’s Mothers’ Day so the restaurants and shops that were open were jammed.

Initially, I thought, no biggie, since I’d have the next day to explore but some places like the museums opt to close on Mondays.

It also rained for a bit. I did do a little wandering but much of my time in the city was spent burrowed in bed. (My feet were not displeased with this turn of events.)

I loved this little shop devoted entirely to mushrooms. I wondered if my HOA would permit a bust over my entry.

After the rained passed, it was a beautiful day.

While limited, I enjoyed my stay and a few shared meals with a variety of my Camino family.

Day 13: San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

It may look warmer but it was only 42° when I started out of San Juan de Ortega.

I was ready for breakfast when I saw Agés.

A few fun murals along the way.

Today’s climb was short but rocky. The reward was this sign basically saying enjoy the view.

I didn’t take many photos as I had to traipse 16 miles by 2pm.

I have arrived in Burgos!

Day 12: Belorado to San Juan de Ortega

The Church of Santa María was my morning parting shot of Belorado.

A view of Ermita Virgen de la Peña passing through Tosantos.

I was so happy it wasn’t raining, nearly everything looked worthy of a picture.

Until the steep ascent starting in Villafranca Montes de Oca.

This is about the half way point. The town is just visible below.

Despite the climb, the change in flora and fauna was welcome.

I especially enjoyed hearing birdsong other than cuckoos.

There were even whimsical notes.

Too much of a good thing started to come to mind.

Finally, out of the woods.

After being denied at every other establishment in San Juan de Ortega, I made the decision to stay at the monastery. I had intended to continue on to Agés but it has fewer beds and I didn’t want to risk not finding an available one.

Day 11: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado

The weather forecast predicted 100% rain. It wasn’t looking promising as I left town.

Cobblestones and slate get kind of slick when it rains. The thunderstorm started to taper off.

But it just became more ominous.

Until the sun came out!

And then it went away to allow the next thunderstorm to pass. Giant earthworms couldn’t resist emerging. (This one wasn’t giant but happened to match my shoe.)

It was a soggy day. These murals were a welcome sight just outside the door of my hostel where I’d get warm and dry.

Day 10: Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Morning walk leaving Nájera.

May 1st is a big deal around here. For starters, I was disappointed that a room was not available for another night after learning there would be a medieval marketplace as part of the Nájera Festival that would be going on through the weekend. I did get to see some of the displays and craft booths being set up as I walked out of town.

Additionally, it is Mayday or Labour Day, which is a national holiday, so good luck getting supplies from a farmacia or market.

Nothing but nature to see today.

Except for this representation of Santo Domingo, who built a bridge over the Oja River for pilgrims to cross.

Further, in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, a drummer and some young women in traditional garb participate in the Procession of the Bread for the Fiesta of the Saint.

Feeling inspired by all the celebrations, we opted to dine at Los Caballeros, a Michelin Guide recommendation.

I suppose we were also celebrating having now walked about 130 miles.

Day 9: Navarrete to Nájera

It would be difficult not to notice that one is in La Rioja while walking this stage of the Camino.

Most of the views are fields of grapes and your shadow.

There are random spots of color but mostly vine rows.

While trying to take a break by this chozo, I was pestered by a very vocal and curious local.