Day 32: O Cebreiro to Triacastela

May 23, 2025May 27, 2025PJ Leave a comment

I don’t usually wake up for the sunrise or above the clouds so it was a special morning.

I would have run out of film had I been using a real camera.

It was a very slow walk down to Fonfría as I couldn’t stop admiring the view.

The Pilgrims’ Monument was almost more of a distraction than a creative work to be admired.

I did notice a few other things like how beautiful a day it was and how the “ancient marker” differed from the current ones.

Also, how these cows objected to having their siesta interrupted. Siesta is observed by all.

I was relieved as Triacastela came into view.

It was about time for my own siesta or at least a rest for my feet.

Day 31: La Portela de Valcarce to O Cebreiro

May 22, 2025May 27, 2025PJ Leave a comment

The morning started off well enough with everyone having breakfast. I loaded up on a freshly made giant churro with chocolate to fuel me up the mountain.

The goal was to get to O Cebreiro, about 2,300 feet above the starting point. It would be similar to hiking about 3/4 of the way up Guadalupe Peak.

There was a lot of up.

I’ve crossed over to Galicia!

I was not expecting to be greeted by a bagpiper at O Cebreiro.

Dinner included two regional dishes, pulpo a la Gallego and caldo Gallego.

Local sights included a palooza and the church of Santa María.

Day 30: Villafranca del Bierzo to La Portela de Valcarce

May 21, 2025May 22, 2025PJ Leave a comment

My bed for the previous night was along the rather loud Río Burbia in charming Villafranca del Bierzo.

Passed by Iglesia de Santiago.

Leaving Villafranca del Bierzo provided a bit of encouragement by noting there was only 187 kilometers left to go to Santiago de Compostela.

I lost track of how many times I crossed the Río Valcarce throughout the day.

Often looking like light snowfall, the track was plagued by cottonwood tree pollen.

Arrived in La Portela de Valcarce.

My bed for the upcoming night was at the smallest albergue, which happened to also be a pizzeria and home of the lovable Oreo.

Day 29: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

May 20, 2025May 22, 2025PJ Leave a comment

Since it was closed on Monday, I hung around the next morning to tour the Templars Castle of Ponferrada.

The castle was commissioned in 1178 and was built to protect pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago.

It seemed to be a rather large castle and took over an hour to wander through.

I tried to hustle to make up some time but paused for this quick shot in Columbrianos.

I didn’t find any open bars until Camponaraya, where I had a slice of my new favorite treat, Tarta de Santiago.

Most of the day was ambling through wine country.

It all looks similar yet different.

I learned that cherries are also prevalent to the area.

It was a scenic day, which for 15 miles is quite appreciated.

Day 28: El Acebo to Ponferrada

May 19, 2025May 21, 2025PJ Leave a comment

Evening thunderstorms made for a misty/foggy morning.

I was almost sad to leave Albergue La Casa Del Peregrino. The pilgrims’ meal was good and I slept very well.

It wasn’t too long before the sun cleared things up.

It also wasn’t too long before Riego de Ambros came into view. Sadly, no services were available.

The path down to Molinaseca was tricky at times.

Especially when I was looking at the view instead of at the track.

It got easier closer to town.

The town was so lovely, I wanted to stay, but I had booked a room in Ponferrada. I trudged onward, in the rain..

to be greeted by this?!?

Day 27: Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo

May 18, 2025May 19, 2025PJ Leave a comment

The Albergue de Nuestra Señora del Pilar in Rabanal del Camino had so much potential, I really wanted to like it. Unfortunately, the bunks were uncomfortable and the room was freezing. It wasn’t my best night’s sleep but the morning was bright and sunny.

It’s a hike up to Foncebadón

but the cafe at Albergue Monte Irago is a welcome pit stop especially for the apple pie,

which helped me make it up to the Cruz de Ferro.

It was such a pleasure to be back in the mountains.

Even the rocky, feet- destroying path, was beautiful in its own way.

There were so many pictures to choose from to represent the day.

I just kept stopping to capture the scenery.

Until little El Acebo came into view.

My feet were hurting so I decided to try my luck again at finding an available bed and (hopefully) a better night’s sleep.

Day 26: Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

May 17, 2025May 18, 2025PJ Leave a comment

The day started off well. No rain and found the way easily enough.

It was too pretty of a day to be stressed.

I hadn’t been able to book a room or a bed in advance but I firmly believed the Camino would provide.

I had some pleasant chats along the way.

And a fine dinner with good company at an albergue, that did indeed have a bed.

Day 25: San Martín del Camino to Astorga

May 16, 2025May 18, 2025PJ Leave a comment

What a difference a day makes. Unsure of what lied ahead, I took pictures of anything even remotely interesting.

I needn’t have worried but to hedge my bets, I did take the more scenic route.

There was no shortage of visual stimulation.

Manmade or otherwise.

Inquisitive or curious.

The view from the stone cross on an elevation, from which you can see the towns of San Justo de la Vega and, a little further, Astorga, is an eye-opener.

Even the murals grab your attention.

Then, the Palace of Gaudí Astorga.

And it’s view from the roof, of the cathedral and even snow in the distant mountain.

The stained glass is breathtaking but not quite as startling as my need of a haircut.

Day 24: León to San Martín del Camino

May 15, 2025May 17, 2025PJ Leave a comment

Upon entering León, I crossed the Río Torío. Upon exiting, I crossed the Bernesga River.

This was my least favorite day so far.

The path was sandwiched between two major roads with frequent traffic. It ran along the N-120 and had only overgrown fields separating it from the AP-71. (Upside, people in passing cars don’t yell or throw things at you.)

There was a constant threat of rain, but fortunately it held off until the last mile or so.

Thankfully, this 15.5 miles stretch isn’t very representative of the Camino. There is a slightly longer more scenic option available tomorrow. As long as it isn’t raining, I’m sure I’ll take it.