Stopped for breakfast at this inviting spot in Mansilla de Las Mulas.
Checked out the local farmers’ market.
Crossed the Esla River.
Walked a lot.
Looked at things.
Admired the view.
Located my hostel, near the León Cathedral.
Attended dinner with fellow pilgrims. Devoured fried chocolate.
In hopes of beating the rain, I got an early start.
It was paying off but it looked like it might start raining at any moment.
I started picking up the pace.
I tried to remember to take pictures and enjoy each moment.
A visit to Villamarco was tempting but at almost a kilometer off path, it wasn’t worth risking.
It rained steadily for hours after I arrived. Sadly, I stayed huddled indoors trying to stay warm and dry.
The forecast said more rain and it sure looked like it would be accurate as I was leaving Sahagún.
I did get a late start as I decided to stop at the Santuario de la Virgen Peregrina to get a “Carta Peregrina” but it was only going to be a 10k day.
Due to the rain, shorter distance, and endless fields of grain, I took few pictures. The Ermita de la Virgen de Perales welcomes you to Bercianos del Real Camino.
For those that have never stayed in a hostel, here is an example of a preferred set up. Each “pod” at this albergue has a light, outlet, and privacy curtain. Each bunk is sturdy, doesn’t squeak, and you are provided a pillow case and fitted sheet. (I carry a sleeping bag liner.)
It wasn’t intended to be a long day but the rain made it feel like one.
It wasn’t a hard rain and just outside Sahagún it finally let up.
This little bridge is situated just before the Hermitage of the Virgin and the monument symbolizing the midpoint of the Camino de Santiago – Frances.
They sounded more interesting than they looked.
I was still excited to know there was now more path behind me than in front of me.
Happily made it into Sahagún without being soaked.
A few pics from a short stroll around town
including the Arco de San Benito.
Short because of a sudden hail storm.
Dinner at El Arco, specializing in meat, made up for it. The trout soup was both heartwarming and delicious. The burger was fantastic.
Leaving Población de Campos behind.
Revenga de Campos wasn’t very far down the road.
At Villalcázar de Sirga, a quick visit to the Templar church of Santa María la Blanca.
The sixth stage of the 2025 La Vuelta Femenina whizzed by.
Followed shortly thereafter by rain.
It didn’t linger much longer than Carrión de los Condes.
It loomed and grumbled all the way to Calzadilla de la Cueza.
This may have been the best smelling stage of the Camino so far.
It was definitely the longest.
The threat of more rain made it seem endless.
I tried to focus on the bright spots.
A welcoming sight, the cemetery at Calzadilla de la Cueza.
Still dry! Now to locate the hostel.
Beautiful morning leaving Castrojeriz.
Unfortunately, upon leaving town, the day starts with the mountain pass of Mostelares. It doesn’t look like much in this photo but the next 1.25 miles of the trail went up 465 feet.
Of course, after enjoying the view from the top, the backside just went down.
About 7 miles later, Itero de la Vega offered this very welcoming mural.
More nesting storks, wildflowers,
fields,
towns,
other birds,
and hills to view along the way.
Before and after Frómista.
Finally, Población de Campos, population of about 180. Excuse my brevity, it was a long day filled with many miles.
Due to limited availibility of beds and yesterday’s long haul, another short day seemed to be in order, which meant sleeping in.
This region is known for expansive cereal fields. I tried to discern if this was barley or wheat.
The Convent of San Antón makes for a scenic rest stop along the way.
More verdant fields of grains and wildflowers on the way to Castrojeriz.
Then Castrojeriz appears on the horizon.
It’s a pretty town, population of about 780.
It even has the remains of a castle.
The view from my balcony and dinner with friends.
Reluctantly leaving Burgos. Crossing over the Arlanzón River and catching a bird resting on the tip of El Cid’s sword.
I say reluctantly because it was about to be a 20 mile day. Every bed in between Burgos and Hontanas was either spoken for or going to go to the early risers.
Passing through Rabé de las Calzadas. A stork’s nest, a sign with the medieval pilgrim’s term, ultreia, meaning further, and
a traffic jam.
Afterwards, the rest of the day went mostly like this.
And this…
And so on…
Until this view of Hornillos del Camino.
Then this…
A bit of this…
And so on…
Until this welcoming view of Hontanas, population 70.
This unimposing building houses a most wonderful treat.
This picture doesn’t do it justice but the hydrotherapy spa with its jets and sauna was just what I needed when I hobbled into town.
Welcome to Burgos!
My decision to spend a “rest day” in Burgos had a few unexpected flaws. I arrived on a Sunday so many places were closed but it was also Spain’s Mothers’ Day so the restaurants and shops that were open were jammed.
Initially, I thought, no biggie, since I’d have the next day to explore but some places like the museums opt to close on Mondays.
It also rained for a bit. I did do a little wandering but much of my time in the city was spent burrowed in bed. (My feet were not displeased with this turn of events.)
I loved this little shop devoted entirely to mushrooms. I wondered if my HOA would permit a bust over my entry.
After the rained passed, it was a beautiful day.
While limited, I enjoyed my stay and a few shared meals with a variety of my Camino family.
It may look warmer but it was only 42° when I started out of San Juan de Ortega.
I was ready for breakfast when I saw Agés.
A few fun murals along the way.
Today’s climb was short but rocky. The reward was this sign basically saying enjoy the view.
I didn’t take many photos as I had to traipse 16 miles by 2pm.
I have arrived in Burgos!
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