Day 31: La Portela de Valcarce to O Cebreiro

The morning started off well enough with everyone having breakfast. I loaded up on a freshly made giant churro with chocolate to fuel me up the mountain.

The goal was to get to O Cebreiro, about 2,300 feet above the starting point. It would be similar to hiking about 3/4 of the way up Guadalupe Peak.

There was a lot of up.

I’ve crossed over to Galicia!

I was not expecting to be greeted by a bagpiper at O Cebreiro.

Dinner included two regional dishes, pulpo a la Gallego and caldo Gallego.

Local sights included a palooza and the church of Santa María.

Day 30: Villafranca del Bierzo to La Portela de Valcarce

My bed for the previous night was along the rather loud Río Burbia in charming Villafranca del Bierzo.

Passed by Iglesia de Santiago.

Leaving Villafranca del Bierzo provided a bit of encouragement by noting there was only 187 kilometers left to go to Santiago de Compostela.

I lost track of how many times I crossed the Río Valcarce throughout the day.

Often looking like light snowfall, the track was plagued by cottonwood tree pollen.

Arrived in La Portela de Valcarce.

My bed for the upcoming night was at the smallest albergue, which happened to also be a pizzeria and home of the lovable Oreo.

Day 29: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

Since it was closed on Monday, I hung around the next morning to tour the Templars Castle of Ponferrada.

The castle was commissioned in 1178 and was built to protect pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago.

It seemed to be a rather large castle and took over an hour to wander through.

I tried to hustle to make up some time but paused for this quick shot in Columbrianos.

I didn’t find any open bars until Camponaraya, where I had a slice of my new favorite treat, Tarta de Santiago.

Most of the day was ambling through wine country.

It all looks similar yet different.

I learned that cherries are also prevalent to the area.

It was a scenic day, which for 15 miles is quite appreciated.

Day 28: El Acebo to Ponferrada

Evening thunderstorms made for a misty/foggy morning.

I was almost sad to leave Albergue La Casa Del Peregrino. The pilgrims’ meal was good and I slept very well.

It wasn’t too long before the sun cleared things up.

It also wasn’t too long before Riego de Ambros came into view. Sadly, no services were available.

The path down to Molinaseca was tricky at times.

Especially when I was looking at the view instead of at the track.

It got easier closer to town.

The town was so lovely, I wanted to stay, but I had booked a room in Ponferrada. I trudged onward, in the rain..

to be greeted by this?!?

Day 27: Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo

The Albergue de Nuestra Señora del Pilar in Rabanal del Camino had so much potential, I really wanted to like it. Unfortunately, the bunks were uncomfortable and the room was freezing. It wasn’t my best night’s sleep but the morning was bright and sunny.

It’s a hike up to Foncebadón

but the cafe at Albergue Monte Irago is a welcome pit stop especially for the apple pie,

which helped me make it up to the Cruz de Ferro.

It was such a pleasure to be back in the mountains.

Even the rocky, feet- destroying path, was beautiful in its own way.

There were so many pictures to choose from to represent the day.

I just kept stopping to capture the scenery.

Until little El Acebo came into view.

My feet were hurting so I decided to try my luck again at finding an available bed and (hopefully) a better night’s sleep.