In the City of Lights

The obvious, the Louvre Museum.

The stunning, Palais Garnier and Henry IV.

The unexpected, signs of the Camino de Santiago including a Salvador Dali scallop shell sundial.

The surprising, inner city indoor markets and fancy water fountains.

The historical, once the residence and meeting place for Pablo Picasso.

The significant, Basilique du Sacré-Cœur and Le Moulin de la Galette.

The artistic, Bourse de Commerce and Andrea Roggi’s “Apeiron” at Place de la Madeleine.

The honorific, tombs of Chopin and Jim Morrison at Père-Lachaise Cemetery.

The heartening, Place du Tertre.

The gastronomic, yummies.

The alarming, a work by Mr Byste and Marcel Aymé’s character Dutilleul, the passer-through-walls.

The amusing, fanciest Starbucks ever and Gregos faces.

The inspiring, Le mur des je t’aime or wall of love.

The emboldening, the Medici Fountain, depicting the story of Acis and Galatea and Montaigne’s well-rubbed foot.

The contrasting, classic versus modern stained-glass in the Church of Saint-Séverin.

The commonplace, Musée de Cluny and flypast practice for Bastille Day.

The unanticipated, the Olympic Cauldron.

The obligatory, Notre Dame and a French bulldog in Paris.

Day 1: SJPdP to Roncesvalles

I’m not going to lie, today was rough.

It wasn’t the nearly 16 miles nor was it the number of steps.

It was the elevation.

It was the rain and the fog. It was seeing just enough to know that the road continued up.

It was the creepy things.

It was the gloomy things.

It was the constant damp.

The highlights included random spots of color, crossing the border and the Pyrenees Mountains, and a lovely lunch of veg soup, Spanish tortilla, and fresh squeezed orange juice at Orisson.

At the Starting Line

Today was another challenging travel day. The plan was to get to Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPdP) early enough to pickup a Pilgrim’s passport, a water bottle (forgot to replace my hydration bladder after washing the backpack), locate and check into a hostel, wander a bit, then relax before the first big day. Instead, a one hour delay at Dax made me miss the connecting train at Bayonne. A 2 1/2 hour layover there did allow enough time to discover a charming cafe that served up this quesadilla platter. It was basically a ham and cheese crepe made with a tortilla instead and topped off with an egg. It worked.

After obtaining the passport and a water bottle, I found the hostel I had booked. I’m in a 4-bed women’s dorm but luckily, Beaux is my only roommate.

I even had a little time to stroll along the city walls and the citadel.

It is an endearing little town. I’d be more annoyed about being delayed but a lot of the shops are closed due to the holiday.

Beaux on the Go

Since I don’t have my bike, I decided to bring Beaux the Armadillo along as my travel companion. After many hours on planes and trains, we were happy to have an opportunity to stretch our legs and wander about the city.

Paris has not been without mishap. The train from the airport to the city was out of service. I can’t make the Navigo card I bought for the Metro to work. These issues led to delays that made us miss the last train to Bayonne for the day. The holiday has everybody traveling so train tickets are scarce and expensive. My new phone is locked so I can’t use a local sim card.

On the upside, we arrived. An airport employee invited me to travel with her into the city so I had company and a guide. It has only rained while I’ve been inside something. I found a reasonably priced hotel room off this adorable street. While I don’t know what I’ve been eating, it has all been good.