Day 35: Portomarín to Palas de Rei

May 26, 2025May 27, 2025PJ Leave a comment

What a difference a day makes… things change. Some say the Camino has become inundated with “touregrinas”. While I enjoy meeting fellow walkers, I miss the peaceful moments of solitude that were a common part of my day. So, I’ve turned to the dark side.

Meet Oz and Scott, two members of my Camino family. I caught back up with them enroute to O Cebreiro. They start walking each day by about 5:30am… in the dark… with headlamps. I thought that was odd. This morning, I joined them.

Not a lot has changed. I still look around. This pre-Roman hill fort is an Iron Age archaeological site. It is just outside of Castromaior.

I started noticing these everywhere in Galicia. It is an hórreo, a granary.

Other things that caught my eye.

The main advantages of the early morning start include sunrises, beating the heat and the crowds, and getting a bottom bunk in the dorms. I’m quite sure I’m not becoming a morning person but for the duration of the Camino, I’m a convert.

Day 34: Sarria to Portomarín

May 25, 2025May 26, 2025PJ Leave a comment

Crossed the Río Pequeno this morning.

Still felt a bit like a hobbit.

Crossed the 100 kilometer marker.

Still looking around.

Crossed this 350 meter bridge to arrive in Portomarín.

Still eating, pulpa á feira, in this instance, and wandering into cathedrals.

Day 33: Triacastela to Sarria

May 24, 2025May 25, 2025PJ Leave a comment

In a sense, every day on the Camino is special… this one started with lush green fields and plenty of sunshine.

Shortly thereafter, a very cool thing happened. I came across the studio of artist, Arthur Manton Lowe. After messing up the stamp, he “fixed it” by painting a Texas desert scene in my credential. I enjoyed visiting with him and listening to some Johnny Cash. It kind of made my day.

For a good part of the day, I felt a bit like a hobbit strolling through a lichen backdrop.

Having my first empanada gallega was also a highlight.

A few things caught my eye arriving in Saria.

Even the ice cream had a distinct touch.

Day 32: O Cebreiro to Triacastela

May 23, 2025May 27, 2025PJ Leave a comment

I don’t usually wake up for the sunrise or above the clouds so it was a special morning.

I would have run out of film had I been using a real camera.

It was a very slow walk down to Fonfría as I couldn’t stop admiring the view.

The Pilgrims’ Monument was almost more of a distraction than a creative work to be admired.

I did notice a few other things like how beautiful a day it was and how the “ancient marker” differed from the current ones.

Also, how these cows objected to having their siesta interrupted. Siesta is observed by all.

I was relieved as Triacastela came into view.

It was about time for my own siesta or at least a rest for my feet.

Day 31: La Portela de Valcarce to O Cebreiro

May 22, 2025May 27, 2025PJ Leave a comment

The morning started off well enough with everyone having breakfast. I loaded up on a freshly made giant churro with chocolate to fuel me up the mountain.

The goal was to get to O Cebreiro, about 2,300 feet above the starting point. It would be similar to hiking about 3/4 of the way up Guadalupe Peak.

There was a lot of up.

I’ve crossed over to Galicia!

I was not expecting to be greeted by a bagpiper at O Cebreiro.

Dinner included two regional dishes, pulpo a la Gallego and caldo Gallego.

Local sights included a palooza and the church of Santa María.

Day 30: Villafranca del Bierzo to La Portela de Valcarce

May 21, 2025May 22, 2025PJ Leave a comment

My bed for the previous night was along the rather loud Río Burbia in charming Villafranca del Bierzo.

Passed by Iglesia de Santiago.

Leaving Villafranca del Bierzo provided a bit of encouragement by noting there was only 187 kilometers left to go to Santiago de Compostela.

I lost track of how many times I crossed the Río Valcarce throughout the day.

Often looking like light snowfall, the track was plagued by cottonwood tree pollen.

Arrived in La Portela de Valcarce.

My bed for the upcoming night was at the smallest albergue, which happened to also be a pizzeria and home of the lovable Oreo.

Day 29: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

May 20, 2025May 22, 2025PJ Leave a comment

Since it was closed on Monday, I hung around the next morning to tour the Templars Castle of Ponferrada.

The castle was commissioned in 1178 and was built to protect pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago.

It seemed to be a rather large castle and took over an hour to wander through.

I tried to hustle to make up some time but paused for this quick shot in Columbrianos.

I didn’t find any open bars until Camponaraya, where I had a slice of my new favorite treat, Tarta de Santiago.

Most of the day was ambling through wine country.

It all looks similar yet different.

I learned that cherries are also prevalent to the area.

It was a scenic day, which for 15 miles is quite appreciated.

Day 28: El Acebo to Ponferrada

May 19, 2025May 21, 2025PJ Leave a comment

Evening thunderstorms made for a misty/foggy morning.

I was almost sad to leave Albergue La Casa Del Peregrino. The pilgrims’ meal was good and I slept very well.

It wasn’t too long before the sun cleared things up.

It also wasn’t too long before Riego de Ambros came into view. Sadly, no services were available.

The path down to Molinaseca was tricky at times.

Especially when I was looking at the view instead of at the track.

It got easier closer to town.

The town was so lovely, I wanted to stay, but I had booked a room in Ponferrada. I trudged onward, in the rain..

to be greeted by this?!?

Day 27: Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo

May 18, 2025May 19, 2025PJ Leave a comment

The Albergue de Nuestra Señora del Pilar in Rabanal del Camino had so much potential, I really wanted to like it. Unfortunately, the bunks were uncomfortable and the room was freezing. It wasn’t my best night’s sleep but the morning was bright and sunny.